Skillet Orange-Olive-Oil Cake
My take on Lisa Donovan's unusual skillet version of the orange cake she adapted from Paul Bertolli’s recipe.
Lisa Donovan in NYT Food developed this skillet version of the cake, adapting Paul Bertolli’s Bitter Orange Cake recipe from his classic “Cooking by Hand,” in which he uses blood oranges.
As usual, I made the cake with olive oil instead of butter, adding whole eggs not just the yolks that Donovan suggests. Also, I increased the amount of toasted fennel seeds to 1 tablespoon, from ¼ teaspoon, as they complement beautifully the chunky bitter-sour orange pulp. Instead of walnuts I used toasted almonds from our trees.
Omitting the buttermilk topping, I splashed the warm cake with orange-flavored liqueur and decorated it with candied orange peels. Next time I will probably spread some of my freshly made bitter-orange marmalade on top...
Yield: one10-inch cake
1 +2/3 cups/335 grams granulated sugar
2 small oranges
1 tangerine
2 teaspoons vanilla vanilla extract
1 tablespoon fennel seeds, lightly toasted and coarsely ground
½ teaspoon plus a good pinch salt (I only use sea salt)
1 cup/226 grams olive oil (or ½ cup olive oil and ½ cup sunflower oil), plus 2-3 tablespoons for the pan
2 medium or large eggs, preferably at room temperature
2 cups/255 grams all-purpose flour
1/3 cup/60 grams semolina flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
½ cup/70 grams chopped, toasted almonds
Orange-flavored liqueur, such as Grand Marnier (optional)
Candied Orange peel to decorate the cake (optional)
Place a 10-inch cast iron pan on the middle rack and heat the oven to 350 degrees (180 C) while you prepare the batter.
Add sugar to the bowl of a stand mixer and finely zest the two oranges into it. Set the bowl aside and then trim a bit of the stem end of both oranges and tangerine and discard. Cut the oranges and the tangerine into 8 pieces, remove any pips and puree in a food processor or blender, scraping the bowl as needed –it doesn’t matter if it is slightly coarse. You need about 1½ cups puree; set aside.
To the stand mixer bowl add the vanilla, fennel seeds, and a good pinch of salt. Rub the ingredients together well with your fingers.
When sugar is fragrant, add the eggs and set the mixer to medium-high speed to cream the eggs and sugar, until fluffy, 4-5 minutes. Scrape down bowl, add the olive oil and continue processing 2-3 minutes longer, remembering to scrape the bowl as needed.
While wet ingredients are working in the mixer, prepare the dry ingredients by whisking together flour, semolina, baking powder, and a bit more salt.
Scrape the olive oil and egg mixture down from bowl and paddle, add the reserved 1½ cups orange puree and slowly incorporate on medium-low speed, then turn to medium-high to blend well.
Starting on very low speed, add the dry ingredients, then increase the speed to medium and scraping bowl and paddle, work the mixture briefly, just until the batter is well mixed.
Remove the hot skillet from the oven, brush with a generous amount of olive oil and pour the batter in the hot pan. It should sizzle and will get a nice, toasty caramelized bottom during baking.
Bake for about 35 minutes, until the cake is set in the middle and its top is golden brown. A knife or cake tester should come out clean.
If you like, while the cake is still hot, prick the top with a toothpick and sprinkle generously with orange-flavored liqueur. Top with some candied orange if you like.
The cake can be eaten while still warm, after sitting for about 30 minutes. Well wrapped with plastic film it can be stored at room temperature for up to 4 days, if you can resist the temptation to devour it…